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Royal Pythons

Royal Pythons are one of the most popular pet species in the UK this is because of their lovely temperament and they are very easy to keep. They are beautifully marked and are now being bred in many different colours and patterns. Royal Pythons are sometime referred to as Ball Pythons, when they are scared they will roll into a ball with their head well protected in between its coils. They grow to around 1.2m long and are a heavily built snake, with a very gentle nature.

Selecting Your Snake 

When purchasing a Royal it is worthwhile going to a reputable reptile shop or breeder. They will be only too happy to let you see the selection of snakes they have available. The snake should be confident with handling although hatchlings often take a minute or two for their confidence to build. They should be bright and clean looking. Check the snake is feeding ok (never buy a non-feeder) most people keep feeding records. Hatchlings should have eaten a minimum of 3 times before they are sold. Royal Pythons have a reputation of being bad feeders, though with captive bred snakes this is not such an issue. Always buy UK captive bred snakes as captive farmed snakes can be very stressed an reluctant to feed. 

Housing 

A wooden vivarium is best for Royal Python as they are better insulated than glass or plastic tanks, so therefore easier to get the heating set up correctly. They are also designed with snakes in mind so escapees are unlikely. (Remember to shut the doors properly!). A wooden vivarium will offer more privacy as they only have a glass front.

For a hatchling snake we would recommend a 24” vivarium, then upgrade to a 36” at about 1 year of age.

If young snakes are put into a large vivarium they often become stressed and refuse to feed.

Adult snakes are best kept in a 48x24x24” vivarium 

Heating 

Temperature is very important in reptile care as they cannot produce their own body heat and need to be kept within a suitable range to help the body function correctly.

Royal Pythons require an ambient temperature of 27 to 29°C with a hot spot of 31°C to 33°C during in the day; this can be achieved by using a ceramic heater and a basking light on thermostats mounted at one side of the vivarium to create a warmer side. At night the temperature should drop to around 23°C to 25°C.

It is very important to know what the temperature is, so check regularly with an accurate thermometer. Ideally use two maximum/minimum thermometers per vivarium (one at each end of the vivarium). Do not guess or take temperature by hand (if it feels warm or cold)

Lighting 

A simply 12 hour light cycle is ideal for Royal Pythons.

The UV requirements of snakes are not fully understood, but many have been kept successfully without UV lighting being provided. Although some keepers believe it is beneficial.

Water 

It is important to provide your snake with fresh water every day, in a bowl that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. This will help the snake shed its skin.

Hides and Décor

The snake will require a few hides in the vivarium so that it can feel secure. By having 2 or 3 in different areas the vivarium the snake will be able to chose the one that is at the best temperature. A humid hide is also recommended ( such as the Exo Terra Snake Cave). These are hollow hides with a damp moss inside; snakes will often use these when they are shedding their skin.

Plastic plants are also good to use, as these look very attractive in the vivarium as well as offering privacy. Real plants however are a poor choice, as the heat will kill them very quickly and the snakes will often dig them out if their pots.

Feeding

Feed your snake one defrosted mouse or rat weekly for young snakes and fortnightly for adults. The mouse should be no bigger than the largest part of the snake. Rats are a better source of food than mice, hatching snakes can be fed on rat pups and moving up to medium or large rats as adults.

As snakes do not use energy to warm their bodies (as mammals do) they need less energy to function.

Resist the urge to feed your snake more often or larger prey as this can lead to the snake growing to fast, which can result in the head of the snake not growing at the same speed as the rest of the body. Obesity can also be a problem. If a snake is overfed they have no reason to move around their vivarium and this is detrimental to their health.

There are a few feeding techniques the most simple is to place the defrosted food in the vivarium near the snake and leave it to feed. The other way is to offer the food on some tongs or tweezers to the snake; they will often strike very quickly then constrict the prey.

Snake sometimes will refuse to feed while shedding.

Maintenance  

Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary, removing waste as soon as possible. Clean and disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using safe disinfectant. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture and your snake.

Shedding

Snakes shed their skin as they grow, it normal comes off in one piece.  The first stage in the process is when the eyes go opaque (cloudy) at this point the snake will not want to feed and will hide away, it is best to leave it to do so. After a few days the eyes will clear again but it won’t shed for another 7 to 10 days. If the snake has trouble removing the skin it is best to put the snake in a tub with some damp moss to help soften the skin and help buy gentle rubbing. If you have trouble removing the skin

Conclusion

Royal Pythons are great snakes to keep and they are now available in many different colour morphs.