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Garter Snakes

There are many speices of garter snakes, but the most popular in captivity in the UK  are the Red sided and the Checkered Garter snakes so this care sheet will be written with these two species in mind.  

Description

The pattern of garter snakes varies little between species, it consists of 1,2 or 3 longditudinal stripes on the back. In between these strips are rows with blotchy spots.

There range is huge from Central America to Alaska and they live in a variety of habitats, from dry to wet regions. The more northern species hibernate in huge groups containing hundreds of snakes.

Red Sided Garter Snakes (Thamnophis sirtalis parietalis) is a fairly large species with females reaching 1m in length, males are usually smaller.  They are very distinctive with 3 yellow strips from head to tail with black and red blotches between the stripes.

Checkered  Garter Snake (Thamnophis marcianus) is typically green in color, with a distinct, black checkerboard pattern down its back. It is capable of growing to lengths of 42 inches, but 28 inches is closer to average. These are  also seen in albino form.

Selecting Your Snake 

When purchasing a Garter snake it is worthwhile going to a reputable reptile shop or breeder. They will be only too happy to let you see the selection of snakes they have available. The snake should be confident with handling although hatchling often take a minute or two to settle down. They should be bright and clean looking. Check the snake is feeding ok (never buy a non-feeder) most people keep feeding records. Hatchlings should have eaten a minimum of 3 times before they are sold. Garter Snakes are still imported from the wild, these are best avoided and purchase a captive bred specimen.

Housing

 A wooden Vivarium is best for Garter Snakes as they are better insulated than glass or plastic tanks, so therefore easier to get the heating set up correctly. They are also designed with snakes in mind so escapees are unlikely. (Remember to shut the doors properly!). A wooden vivarium will offer more privacy as they only have a glass front.

For a hatchling snake we would recommend a 24” vivarium, then upgrade to a 36” or larger at about 1 year of age.

If young snakes are put into a large vivarium they often become stressed and refuse to feed.  Garter snakes are very active, so once your snake is established a large vivarium will be appreciated.  

Heating 

Temperature is very important in reptile care as they cannot produce there own body heat and need to be kept with in a suitable range to help the body function correctly.

Garter snakes require a temperature gradient of 22°C to 30°C during in the day; this can be achieved by using a heat mat and a basking light on thermostats mounted at one side of the vivarium to create a warmer side. At night the temperature should drop to around 16°C to 20°C.

It is very important to know what the temperature is, so check regularly with an accurate thermometer. Ideally use two maximum/minimum thermometers per vivarium (one at each end of the vivarium). Do not guess or take temperature by hand (if it feels warm or cold)

Lighting 

A simply 12 hour light cycle is ideal for Garter snakes. I would recommend using a 5% UVB light with your Garter snake to help it metabolise the nutrients in the food properly. it is recommended to replace UV lights every 6 months due to a decline in UV output. Please follow this link for more information www.uvguide.co.uk

Water 

It is important to provide your snake with fresh water every day, in a bowl that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. Some garter snakes will love to swim if the bowl is big enough. If you do you do use a very large water bowl be sure to check you have adequate ventilation to avoid developing respiratory or skin problems.

Hides and Décor

The snake will require a few hides in the vivarium so that it can feel secure. By having 2 or 3 in different areas the vivarium the snake will be able to chose the one that is at the best temperature. Plastic plants are also good to use, as these look very attractive in the vivarium as well as offering privacy. Real plants however are a poor choice, as the heat will kill them very quickly and the snakes will often dig them out if their pots.

Feeding  

In the wild Garter snakes eat a variety of prey, including amphibians, earthworms, fish and small rodents. In captivity we tend to offer then a mixture of frozen whole fish and small mice (defrosted thoroughly before feeding). It is important to supplement the foods with a vitamin/mineral powder as freezing causes the development of thiaminase, an enzyme which destroys thiamin (Vitamin B).

Feed your snake weekly. The prey should be no bigger than the largest part of the snake. As snakes do not use energy to warm their bodies (as mammals do) they need less energy to function. Resist the urge to feed your snake more often or larger prey as this can lead to the snake growing to fast, which can result in the head of the snake not growing at the same speed as the rest of the body. Obesity can also be a problem. If a snake is overfed they have no reason to move around their vivarium and this is detrimental to their health.

Snake sometimes will refuse to feed while shedding.

Maintenance  

Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary, removing waste as soon as possible. Clean and disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using safe disinfectant. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow too dry before replacing cage furniture and your snake.

Shedding

Snakes shed their skin as they grow; it normal comes off in one piece.  The first stage in the process is when the eyes go opaque (cloudy) at this point the snake will not want to feed and will hide away, it is best to leave it to do so. After a few days the eyes will clear again but it won’t shed for another 7 to 10 days. If the snake has trouble removing the skin it is best to put the snake in a tub with some damp moss to help soften the skin and help buy gentle rubbing. If you have trouble removing the skin

Conclusion

Garter snakes are an interesting species to keep and are more active than most species