Evolution Reptiles

Corn Snake

Corn Snakes are the most popular pet species in the UK, this is because they are very easy to keep and have a lovely nature. They are beautifully marked and are now being bred in many different colours and patterns.

Selecting Your Snake

When purchasing a corn snake it is worth while going to a reputable reptile shop or breeder. They will be only too happy to let you see the selection of snakes they have available. The snake should be confident with handling although hatchlings often take a minute or two to settle down. They should be bright and clean looking. Check the snake is feeding ok (never buy a non-feeder) most people keep feeding records. Hatchlings should have eaten a minimum of 3 times before they are sold.

Housing

A wooden vivarium is best for Corn Snakes as they are better insulated than glass or plastic tanks, so therefore easier to get the heating set up correctly. They are also designed with snakes in mind so escapees are unlikely. (Remember to shut the doors properly!). A wooden vivarium will offer more privacy for the snake, as they only have a glass front.
For a hatchling snake we would recommend a 24" vivarium, then upgrade to a 36" at about 1 year of age. If young snakes are put into a large vivarium they often become stressed and refuse to feed.

Click Here for our Corn Snake Set Up

Heating

Temperature is very important in reptile care as they cannot produce there own body heat and need to be kept within a suitable range to help the body function correctly.

Corn snakes require a temperature gradient of 25°C to 30°C during the day; this can be achieved by using a heat mat and a guarded basking light mounted at one side of the vivarium to create a warmer side. The heat mat should always be controlled by a thermostat. Ideally basking lights in particular ones with a higher wattage should be controlled by a separate thermostat. At night the temperature should drop to around 20°C to 25°C.
It is very important to know what the temperature is, so check regularly with an accurate thermometer. Do not guess or take temperature by hand (if snake feels warm or cold).

Lighting

A simple 12 hour light cycle is ideal for Corn snakes.

Snakes do not require UV lighting like most lizards do, although some keepers believe it is beneficial.

Water

It is important to provide your snake with fresh water every day, in a bowl that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. This will help the snake shed its skin.

Hides and Décor

The snake will require a few hides in the vivarium so that it can feel secure. By having 2 or 3 in different areas in the vivarium the snake will be able to choose the one that is at the best temperature. A humid hide is also recommended (such as the Exo Terra Snake Cave). These are hollow hides with a damp moss inside, snakes will often use these when they are shedding their skin.
Plastic plants are also good to use, as these look very attractive in the vivarium as well as offering privacy. Real plants however are a poor choice, as the heat will kill them very quickly and the snakes will often dig them out of their pots.

Feeding

Feed your snake one defrosted mouse weekly. The mouse should be no bigger than the largest part of the snake. Corn snakes can eat mice their entire lives - starting off with pinkies as a hatchling and moving up in size as the animal grows.

As snakes do not use energy to warm their bodies (like mammals do) they need less energy to function. Resist the urge to feed your snake more often or larger prey as this can lead to the snake growing too fast, which can result in the head of the snake not growing at the same speed as the rest of the body. Obesity can also be a problem. If a snake is overfed they have no reason to move around their vivarium and this is detrimental to their health.

There are a few different feeding techniques. The most simple is to place the defrosted food in the vivarium near the snake and leave it to feed. The other way is to offer the food on some tongs or tweezers to the snake, they will often strike very quickly then constrict the mouse.

Snake sometimes will refuse to feed while shedding.

Maintenance

Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary, removing waste as soon as possible. Clean and refill the water bowl on a daily basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using safe disinfectant. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture and your snake.

Shedding

Snakes shed their skin as they grow, it normal comes off in one piece. The first stage in the process is when the eyes go opaque (cloudy) at this point the snake will not want to feed and will hide away, it is best to leave it to do so. After a few days the eyes will clear again but it won't shed for another 7 to 10 days. If the snake has trouble removing the skin it is best to put the snake in a tub with some damp moss to help soften the skin and you can help by gently rubbing. If skin is dry do not try to remove.

Conclusion

Corn Snakes are great to keep, very interesting, fun to own and easy to care for. But one is never enough!

Further Reading